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Glass Doors — Frameless, Framed and the Fittings That Carry Them

A glass door is two decisions that get made together: the leaf, and the hardware that hangs it. Frameless or framed, floor spring or hinges, single leaf or double — those choices set what the door costs, how it feels to push every day, and how much of it has to be settled before the floor is even laid. This is the national guide to how glass doors are built in India, and to the fabricators who make them in your city.

8 glass door pages across 8 citiesupdated June 2026

How glass doors are built

Six things describe almost any glass door you will be quoted: how the leaf is held, what closes it, how many leaves there are, what you grip and lock, and where in the building it sits. Get those settled and two quotes become comparable.

Frameless doors on patch fittings

A single toughened leaf, usually 10 mm or 12 mm, with steel patch fittings clamped top and bottom and no frame around the glass. The bottom patch sits on a floor spring set into the floor; the top patch takes the pivot at the header or into a fixed panel above. Every hole — patches, lock, handle — is machined before the glass is toughened, so the leaf that arrives on site is final and cannot be trimmed or re-drilled.

Framed glass doors

Glass carried in an aluminium or timber frame. The frame does the structural work, takes conventional door hardware including mortise locks, and absorbs the small out-of-square that most openings have, which makes it more forgiving to fit and easier to service later. It also allows thinner glass than a frameless leaf — the system’s glazing pocket sets the number — and gives you a line of colour or timber where a frameless door gives you none.

Floor springs, pivots and hinges

A floor spring is a hydraulic closer buried in the floor: it carries the leaf’s weight, controls the closing speed and normally holds the door open at 90°. It is the standard for frameless entrance doors, and it needs a recess formed in the floor — which makes it a decision that belongs before the flooring goes down. Hinges and overhead closers, glass-to-glass or wall-to-glass, avoid that and suit lighter internal and wet-area doors. Springs and hinges alike are rated by leaf weight and width, so the rating has to match the actual leaf.

Single leaf, double leaf and fixed panels

A single leaf is the default. A double leaf — two leaves meeting on a centre line — is used at entrances that need a wide clear opening or a symmetrical face. Where the opening is bigger than one sensible leaf, the rest is filled with fixed panels beside the door and a fixed fanlight above it. The number to check is the clear opening you are left with, not the size of the hole in the wall: the fittings, the frame and the gaps all take from it.

Handles, locks and the rest of the hardware

Hardware is usually quoted separately from the glass and it decides how the door feels every day. Ladder pulls and D-handles are through-bolted into holes drilled before toughening. Locking is either a patch lock dropping a bolt into the floor or threshold, or, on a double leaf, a centre lock between the two leaves; a framed door takes an ordinary mortise lock. Finish and material grade matter most in coastal and bathroom locations, where cheap fittings pit and stain within a season.

Entrance, internal and wet-area doors

The same-looking door is three specifications. An entrance door is heavy, in constant use and usually on a floor spring, with manifestation at eye level so a full-height clear leaf is visible to anyone walking at it. An internal door — a cabin, a study, a pooja room — can be lighter, and often takes frosted, fluted or lacquered glass for privacy. A wet-area door needs corrosion-resistant fittings and hardware sized for a leaf that gets pushed wet, and its measurement is a different exercise from a doorway’s.

What it costs, roughly

Indicative ranges aggregated from Glassy’s published city pages — orientation for a conversation with a fabricator, not a quote.

  • Glass Door₹6,000₹45,000per piece · across 6 cities₹350₹1,200per sq ft · across 2 cities

See the full Glass Price Guide →What moves the price, how the ranges are built, and every product side by side.

Glass door designs

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Every design here is built to order — the specialists we connect you with work to your sizes, in your city.

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Each city page below lists verified glass businesses in that city, an indicative price range for that market and an FAQ written for it. Pick your city, or search the directory directly.

Glass Door8 cities

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Before you order

  1. Settle the floor spring before the floor is laidA floor spring sits in a recess formed in the slab or screed, along with the cement box around it. Depths differ by model, so the spring has to be chosen before the recess is made — and deciding on a frameless door after the marble or tiles are down means cutting them. If a frameless door is even a possibility, mark the position while the floor is still open.
  2. Confirm the glass is toughenedA glass door leaf should be toughened (tempered) safety glass. Look for the permanent stamp in a corner of the panel and check the spec against IS 2553 before you accept a delivery — refusing a panel is far easier than replacing an installed one.
  3. Get the leaf weight before the hardwareGlass weighs about 2.5 kg per square metre per millimetre of thickness, so a 900 × 2100 leaf in 12 mm is roughly 57 kg of glass before any fittings. Floor springs, pivots and hinges are all rated by weight, and the calculator below gives you the number to quote against.
  4. Machine every hole and cut-out firstHandle holes, lock cut-outs and patch notches are cut while the glass is still annealed, before it goes through the furnace. A toughened leaf cannot be drilled, notched or trimmed afterwards, so a late change of handle or lock is a new leaf.
  5. Measure at three points, and check the floorOpenings are rarely square. Take width and height at three points each, plumb both jambs, and check the floor level right across the swing — a frameless leaf runs on a consistent gap at the bottom, and a floor that rises across the arc will catch it.

Tools & guides for this job

Common questions

What thickness of glass is used for a glass door?

A frameless toughened leaf is normally 10 mm or 12 mm — 12 mm for tall or heavily used entrance doors, 10 mm for lighter internal ones. A framed door can carry thinner glass because the frame, not the glass, does the structural work, and the system’s glazing pocket sets the number. The thickness guide walks through the cases side by side.

Floor spring or hinges — which should I choose?

A floor spring carries the weight, controls the closing and holds the door open, which is what a frameless entrance leaf needs; the cost is a recess in the floor that has to be planned before the flooring is laid. Hinges with an overhead closer, or glass-to-glass hinges, avoid the floor work and suit lighter internal and wet-area doors. Either way the fitting is rated by leaf weight, so the leaf has to be weighed first.

Can a glass door be cut or drilled after it is made?

No. Toughened glass cannot be cut, drilled or notched once it has been through the furnace — attempting it shatters the panel. Every hole for handles, locks and patch fittings is machined beforehand, which is why the hardware has to be chosen at the same time as the glass rather than later.

Can a frameless glass door be locked?

Yes. The usual solutions are a patch lock at the bottom, dropping a bolt into a socket in the floor or threshold, or a centre lock between the two leaves of a double door. Framed doors take conventional mortise locks. All of them need the cut-out made before toughening, so decide the locking with the door, not after it is hung.

Single leaf or double?

A single leaf is simpler, cheaper and right for most openings. Past roughly a metre of width the leaf gets heavy and the fittings work harder, which is where a double leaf, or a single leaf with a fixed panel beside it, earns its place. Work back from the clear opening you actually need to walk through, then let the fabricator size the leaves to it.

Are glass doors safe?

They are when they are made properly. The leaf should be toughened safety glass, which breaks into small blunt granules rather than shards, and a full-height clear door should carry manifestation — a frosted, etched or printed band at eye level — so nobody walks into it. The safety checker linked on this page turns a supplier’s spec into a straight yes or no against Indian standards.

What does a glass door cost?

It depends on the leaf, the glass, the hardware and your city — and glass doors are quoted per door in some markets and per square foot of glass in others, so the strip on this page may show both. Those ranges are aggregated from Glassy’s published city pages and are indicative only. The Glass Price Guide has the detail, and a local quote against your actual opening is the only real number.

Does Glassy make or fit glass doors?

No. Glassy is a directory. We list verified glass businesses, fabricators and dealers across India and connect you with 2–3 of them in your city so you can compare. The work is done by the specialist you choose.

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